Laïcité: What It Is, What It Isn’t, and Why It Surprised Me

Being in France has taught me many things—how to slow down, how to savor a moment, how to pronounce rillettes without embarrassing myself—but one of the deeper cultural lessons I’m still wrapping my head around is laïcité.

At first glance, laïcité might seem like France’s version of the American separation of church and state. And sure, in theory, they’re cousins. But in practice, they couldn’t be more different.

In the U.S., we often talk about “freedom of religion”—the right to practice any faith, or none at all. But religion still lives loudly in public life. It's printed on our money, echoed in campaign speeches, woven into our court proceedings. In many places, it’s not unusual for prayer to open a school board meeting or for politicians to wear their faith like a badge.

France, on the other hand, leans more toward what you might call freedom from religion—at least in public life. That doesn’t mean you can’t believe. Quite the opposite. In France, you're completely free to follow any religion you choose—or to follow none at all. What’s different is that no religion can be imposed on you, especially in spaces run by the state. Public life is meant to be completely neutral—a space where everyone can show up as just a citizen, without any religious marker taking center stage.

It’s not anti-religion. It’s anti-imposition.

That distinction runs deep. In French public schools, for example, students and teachers are not allowed to wear visible religious symbols. It’s not just Muslim students who can’t wear a hijab. Christian students can’t wear a big cross. Jewish students can’t wear a yarmulke. The goal—at least in theory—is to protect the shared civic space from religious pressure, influence, or division. The public sphere, in this sense, is treated as a common good that must remain unmarked by belief.

This applies beyond schools, too. In France, when public officials take office, there’s no swearing in on a Bible—or on any religious text. It’s a civil ceremony, a civic commitment, not a religious one. The same goes for courtrooms. Witnesses are asked to swear to tell the truth, but not on a holy book. There’s no “so help me God” at the end of the oath. The idea is that justice, like governance, must remain secular—accessible and fair for everyone, regardless of belief.

And yet, France remains a deeply cultural place—and that includes religion. Many of the national holidays are rooted in the Catholic calendar: Christmas, Easter Monday, Ascension, All Saints’ Day. They’re observed nationwide, regardless of whether you’re practicing Catholicism, another religion, or none at all. The irony isn’t lost on anyone: the country that guards its secularism so fiercely still gives you time off for saints' days.

But maybe that’s just France in a nutshell—contradictory, layered, complex. A place where tradition and modernity constantly collide and rearrange themselves.

It’s also one of the reasons I find it so fascinating to live here.

France is home to the largest populations of both Jews and Muslims in Europe. And while laïcité aims to keep religion out of the public sphere, that hasn’t erased the deep cultural presence of these communities. For someone like me, who’s curious about the way belief shapes identity, history, and daily life, it’s actually created a beautiful space to explore. I’ve found myself learning more about Jewish traditions, listening to Muslim calls to prayer in certain neighborhoods, and having conversations with people who practice quietly, privately, but with profound conviction.

And here’s a small but memorable example of the culture clash I’ve felt: in the U.S., or even when traveling abroad with Americans, people will often bow their heads and pray aloud before a meal—at home, at restaurants, anywhere—without really checking if everyone at the table is comfortable with that. It’s assumed. Expected, even. I’ve always felt a little uneasy in those moments, as if someone else’s belief system is being draped over the entire table. But the first time that happened here in France—when a group of visiting Americans bowed their heads and prayed out loud at a restaurant—I nearly died of discomfort. Not just for myself, but for the people around us. For the waiter, who paused awkwardly. For the French diners, who visibly tensed. In that moment, I understood viscerally how different the relationship between religion and public space is here. It’s not about suppressing belief. It’s about protecting a shared social space where no one belief dominates or assumes itself as the default.

Another thing I’ve noticed: there’s no culture of evangelism here. No one approaches you on the street to ask if you’ve found salvation. No one strikes up casual conversation with the intent of steering it toward their religion. That kind of thing would be considered wildly inappropriate in France. It’s not because people aren’t spiritual—but because belief is seen as deeply personal, and no one has the right to impose theirs on someone else.

Coming from the U.S., where these encounters are almost normalized—especially in certain regions or subcultures—it’s honestly a relief. There’s a quiet respect here for each person’s internal world. You’re not expected to defend it, explain it, or share it. You’re just allowed to have it. Or not. And that permission, that privacy, creates space for curiosity. For growth. For personal, meaningful exploration that isn’t entangled in performance or persuasion.

I’ll admit, it took me a while to understand this approach. As someone raised in a culture that often celebrates pluralism by displaying it—where interfaith dialogue is on public display, and religion in politics is almost expected—France’s quiet, almost stoic neutrality felt strange at first. But it comes from a deep-rooted history: centuries of religious wars, monarchy-church entanglement, revolution, and eventually, a collective decision that peace required a clean line between faith and the Republic.

Laïcité isn’t always easy to apply. And it hasn’t always been applied fairly. But its intention, at least in its purest form, is equality. One rule for everyone. The state doesn’t care what god you worship, or if you worship at all. But when you step into a government space, a classroom, or a courtroom, you leave religion at the door—not because it’s shameful, but because it’s personal.

There’s something oddly freeing about that. Because in a place where belief isn’t constantly debated or politicized, you get to explore it on your own terms. Quietly. Freely.

Of course, neither the French nor the American approach is perfect. They both come with challenges. But living between these two worlds has made me realize that freedom can look very different depending on where you stand. And maybe that’s okay.

Maybe the most important thing is that we each remain free to question, to believe, to doubt, and to grow—and that no one gets to decide that path for us.

This Is How I Come Back To Life

In Bloom: A Quiet Return to Myself 

There are seasons that pass outside of us and seasons that unfold within us. This spring, I find myself living in both.

After a long, heavy winter—one not just of weather, but of weight—I’ve started to feel something stir. Not all at once, and not with fanfare. But softly. Slowly. As if the quiet corners of my soul have begun to stretch again. And oddly enough, it wasn’t some grand epiphany that brought me here. It was a series of small, beautiful things—moments I might’ve missed if I hadn’t slowed down enough to notice them.

Back in Strasbourg, I’ve begun walking with no real agenda. No itinerary, no expectation. Just presence. And in that space, beauty found me.

I saw it in the blooming trees lining empty streets, their petals falling like soft confetti in the wind. In the tulips erupting in vivid color at the park, where the sound of children’s laughter mixed with the rhythm of fountains splashing. I found it in the silence of a stork’s nest high above the tree line—a moment I’ve waited years to witness, and one that arrived not with a spotlight, but with patience.

And maybe that’s the lesson. Maybe some things come only when we’re ready to receive them. Maybe this is how life teaches us to listen again.

These days, my camera has become more than just a tool for documentation. It’s a way of learning to see again—really see. Not for the sake of content or productivity, but for the quiet whisper of truth that lives in overlooked things. A shadow across a canal. A splash of golden light at dusk. The first wisteria buds pressing out into the world as if unsure whether it’s safe to bloom. I know that feeling. I’ve lived it.

There’s something beautifully defiant about spring. It doesn’t ask permission to grow. It simply does. Whether anyone’s watching or not.

I’ve spent the last few weeks trying to move like that—gently, with intention, grounded in the small overlooked moments of each day. I haven’t written much, because truthfully, I haven’t had much to say. Not in the big, public way I’ve grown used to. But I’ve started to understand that it’s okay to pause. To go quiet. To let yourself lie dormant for a while. There’s wisdom in waiting. There’s healing in hibernation. 

And when you’re ready, the world will wait for you to bloom again.

This return to Strasbourg feels different than those before. Less like a reset, more like a re-rooting. I feel myself growing toward the light, even if I’m not yet sure what shape that will take. There’s comfort in not knowing. In learning to trust the process, the seasons, the self.

I share these photos not to impress, but to remember. These are the small anchors of joy that pulled me gently back toward myself. They remind me that life doesn’t always ask for big moves. Sometimes, it just asks you to show up—to notice. To soften. To begin again, in the quietest way possible.

Spring doesn’t arrive all at once. Neither do we.

As a final note…

I know the world feels heavy for many right now. It can feel strange—even selfish—to notice beauty while so much is unraveling. But I’ve come to believe that finding peace in small, quiet things isn’t a betrayal of the world’s suffering—it’s a way to survive it. A way to remember what’s worth protecting. If you’re in a season of uncertainty, grief, or exhaustion, I hope you still find something—however small—that allows your own buds to bloom. Even in a storm, we’re allowed to lean toward the light.

The Sea Still Speaks: Lessons from the Shores of Normandy

Normandy: A Landscape of Memory and Defiance

As a travel professional, I’ve stood in many places shaped by history—but few have arrested my spirit the way Normandy did. Walking along the wind-brushed shores and staring up at the cliffs at Pointe du Hoc, I wasn’t simply a visitor; I was a witness. A witness to what humanity is capable of—both in destruction and in the unwavering pursuit of freedom.

Standing in the craters left by artillery, large enough to swallow me whole, I felt the weight of sacrifice in my bones. I wasn’t there to reenact or romanticize. I was there to listen—to the silence, to the wind, to the faint echo of a generation that ran headfirst into death because they believed in something larger than themselves. The idea of freedom. The idea of shared humanity. The idea that evil can and must be stopped, even when it costs everything.

But this trip was more than reflection. It was resistance.

A Moment at the Cliffs

When I arrived at the cliffs where those soldiers had once climbed, I didn’t expect it to hit me so hard. I had seen the photos. I had read the history. But standing there—wind whipping at my coat, the sound of crashing waves below—it was like the ghosts themselves had gathered to remind me what courage looks like. Real courage. Not the kind that posts slogans online or argues in the safety of hindsight, but the kind that climbs a cliff under relentless fire, knowing full well it may be your last act on earth.

I sat there for an hour. I watched the sky, listened to the sea, and imagined the battle unfolding—men climbing, one after another, some falling before they ever reached the top, and the man behind them still climbing. What drives a person to do that? To face that level of horror and keep going?

I’ve always considered myself a pacifist. I’ve always leaned toward peace. But that day, something shifted in me. I realized that their sacrifice wasn’t about glorifying war—it was about choosing to stand for something when the world was falling apart. I began to ask myself: Would I be willing to give everything to protect the vulnerable? Would I climb the cliff for someone else’s freedom?

And then the bigger questions came. Do I really believe in freedom—not just for myself, but for others? Am I willing to stand for it when it’s not easy, when the cost is high? Do I stand against oppression only when it's far away, or do I hold my ground when it moves into my own neighborhood? 

There’s no longer room for apathy. To choose silence is to surrender. And surrender doesn’t guarantee safety—it simply delays the moment when the fire reaches your doorstep. The cliffs of Normandy reminded me that the torch of courage must be carried forward—not just for the memory of the past, but for the promise of the future.

Normandy is a sacred space, and yet, the world it helped build is under siege—not by bombs, but by apathy. By division. By the steady unraveling of the very values those soldiers died defending. As I moved from one site to the next—from Omaha Beach to the American Cemetery to the lesser-known corners where memory still clings like sea mist—I couldn’t shake a single question:

What have we done with their sacrifice?

Scattered across the land, British, American, Canadian, and French cemeteries tell a quiet story of alliance—a reminder that they fought and fell together beneath the banner of freedom.  It was internationalism in its purest form. No borders, no flags more important than the mission. And now, watching the United States turn its back on those long-standing partnerships—on the very unity that brought the world back from the brink—feels like a betrayal carved into history. I found myself mourning not just the past, but the future we’re letting slip away.

This wasn’t my first time facing grief through travel. But it may have been the first time I truly understood how a place can become defiance. Normandy, for all its calm and quiet, roared with a message: Remember. Resist.

I carry that with me now. In a world unraveling at the seams, where ideology divides neighbors and power is bartered in fear, I find myself returning to those cliffs. To the footsteps of those who knew they might not make it, but went anyway. And I ask myself: Am I doing enough with the freedom they died for? Am I holding the line—not with a weapon, but with courage, compassion, and clarity?

In my line of work, I often speak about meaningful travel. Normandy is not a destination to simply be “seen.” It’s a place that sees you. It holds a mirror to your values, your comfort, and your courage. And in doing so, it reminds us that we are still writing history—not with grand battles, but with everyday choices.

This is not just a travel story. This is a call to memory, to humanity, to action. We cannot forget what happened here. We cannot be silent while the world forgets itself. Not while the tide still reaches the shore that once ran red with the price of our privilege.