Letters Along the Road

Four letters written from the road, to the voices that taught me how to live, question, and begin again.

To Montaigne,

I think you would understand this restlessness. You wrote to study yourself, to observe what it means to be human. I find myself doing the same, though I am less certain of what I am searching for. Perhaps it is not truth but tenderness, the willingness to sit with questions that never resolve. You said, “Que sais-je?” What do I know? Some days, not much at all. But in the act of asking, I feel alive.

Walking alone through Alsace, I often think of your tower and your essays written among books and silence. My silence is made of footsteps, of distant church bells, of the quiet between languages. You searched within to understand the world. I seem to search the world to understand myself. Perhaps it is the same thing.

To Camus,

I read you beneath a grey Alsatian sky, the vineyards stripped bare after harvest. You wrote that life is absurd, that we must imagine Sisyphus happy. I wonder if happiness is too big a word. Maybe it is enough simply to be awake. Some mornings I sit by the river and feel the absurdity you spoke of, this beautiful world that promises nothing. Yet I am still drawn to it, still wanting to praise it.

You found rebellion in living fully, even knowing that everything passes. I think of that often. I do not want to conquer meaning, only to honor the moment I am in. There is defiance in gentleness, in choosing to keep the heart open even when it hurts.

To Simone de Beauvoir,

You taught that freedom means nothing if it is not shared. I hold on to that. Guiding others through France, I watch them awaken to the world, to themselves, and I see how travel becomes a mirror for freedom. It reminds us that we belong not to one place but to one another.

You wrote with courage and clarity, but also with tenderness. I want to live that way. I want to be strong without closing, to love without losing myself. There is still so much I am unlearning.

To Simone Veil,

Yours is the voice that humbles me most. You carried dignity through horror and still chose life, compassion, and service. When I visited the memorials in Alsace, I thought of you. You never surrendered your faith in humanity, even when the world gave you every reason to.

I often wonder what courage really means. You showed that it can be quiet. It can mean simply continuing, holding onto decency when it would be easier to harden. I am still learning what that looks like in my own life.

And to all of you,

You have been companions on this long road. You remind me that meaning is not a destination but a practice, something shaped in how we live, love, and bear witness. I am still learning to be at peace with not knowing. Perhaps that is the truest beginning.

Travel keeps bringing me back to the same questions: how to live, how to love, how to remain soft in a world that is often unkind. These questions follow me from one place to another, yet they no longer demand answers. I have begun to see that meaning hides in the ordinary, in footsteps through damp leaves and the breath drawn before a new word in a foreign tongue. It is in the simple things, the weight of light on water, the scent of rain on old stone, that I remember why I chose to begin again.

Perhaps all I am meant to do is observe, the sky changing, the heart softening, the moment passing. The more I read you, the more I understand that the search for meaning is really the search for gentleness within ourselves, and that gentleness, once found, is what makes this life feel like home.

Fondremand: A Memory Sealed in Stone

I didn’t expect to remember Fondremand.

It was only meant to be the first stop, a small village on the way to somewhere bigger and more important. I was a student on my very first study abroad trip, groggy from the flight and too jet-lagged to hold much expectation. But the moment we arrived, something shifted.

It wasn’t loud. It wasn’t dramatic. It was just… old. The kind of old I had never touched before. The kind that sinks into the ground and doesn’t need to announce itself.

I had never seen a castle in person. Never stood near Roman ruins. Never walked through a place made entirely of stone, where centuries whispered from every wall. The houses, the lavoir, the way the water slipped quietly through the village—it felt like I was standing in a place that had been lived in for hundreds of years, maybe longer. I remember wondering who had passed through before me. What their lives were like. If they were tired too, and if the calmness of this place had wrapped around them the way it suddenly wrapped around me.

What surprised me most was how intact it all was. In the U.S., things rarely last. We build for function, not for memory. But in Fondremand, the buildings stood not only as relics, but as living parts of daily life. Doors still opened, chairs were still being set out for lunch, and the stone walls still held warmth from the sun. It was quiet, yes—but not abandoned. 

The village itself barely made a sound. Just the trickle of water moving through the creek, soft birdsong, the occasional thud of wooden shutters, and the scrape of a chair dragged onto a terrace as someone prepared the only café that seemed to exist. My feet brushed against loose stones as I walked, the sound grounding me even more than the view. No one rushed. No one filled the silence.

The colors were muted, almost shy, until you reached the grassy areas by the creek where green burst through the gray. Near the water, moss clung thick and slick along the base of the stone ramparts. I remember the sensation of age—not as decay, but as texture. As presence.

There isn’t a castle in Fondremand, not really. Not the kind with battlements and flags and fairy tale endings. But somehow, walking through the narrow lanes and overgrown stones, it felt like I had stepped inside ancient castle grounds. The kind of place where hooves once echoed in the courtyard and gossip slipped between the stones.

And maybe it was the jet lag, or just my overly caffeinated imagination, but I had this vivid moment where my mind wandered to Monty Python and the Holy Grail. I pictured the British on one side of the ramparts, the French on the other, shouting nonsense and launching cows over the wall. I had to stop myself from laughing out loud. It was absurd. And somehow perfect.

Because that’s what Fondremand did to me. It cracked me open. Gave me silence, yes, but also space to be fully there. To wonder. To daydream. To fall into history and absurdity all at once.

I hadn’t expected anything from Fondremand. I never knew it existed. In fact, I hadn’t even known we were going there. I was just along for the ride, following the flow of whatever came next. And maybe that’s why it hit me so deeply. I didn’t have time to brace for wonder. It just arrived, and I happened to be paying attention.

If Fondremand challenged me in any way, it was in what it did after. I went back home and looked at life differently. The rows of identical houses, the monotony of beige suburbs, the way everything in the States felt temporary or disposable—I noticed it all. And I mourned something I hadn’t even realized I’d found.

Because Fondremand had shown me something lasting. Something that had endured, not because of its fame or function, but because it had never stopped being real. It wasn’t preserved for tourists. It was simply lived in—weathered, mossy, crumbling, alive.

I never lived there. I never stayed the night. I didn’t even know the name of the woman who opened her shutters while I passed by. But something happened in that village. And for all its silence, it’s never stopped echoing in me.

Fondremand wasn’t a destination. It was a beginning.

A quiet corner of the world that cracked open my curiosity and offered me my first glimpse of time layered into place. I didn’t capture it in perfect photos. I didn’t even know to look for it. But it found me anyway, through stone and water and birdsong.

More than a decade later, I still carry Fondremand with me. It didn’t try to impress. There were no grand gestures, no curated charm. It simply offered what it had always been—still, weathered, and quietly alive. And maybe that’s why I’d bring people there now. Not to check something off a list, but to offer them that same deep breath of history, quiet, and wonder. A reminder that the moments that shape us don’t always ask permission. They arrive gently, almost unnoticed, and stay long after.

Besançon: The Quiet Flame That Almost Called Me Home

A love letter to a city that shaped my path, even though I didn’t stay.

In 2014, when I stepped into France for the first time. I didn’t know then that the country would one day become my second skin, but something stirred even then. And one of the first places to hold me in that early wonder was Besançon.

Tucked between green hills and quiet rivers, circled by a citadel that felt more like a guardian than a monument, Besançon wasn’t flashy. It didn’t need to be. It had history in its bones, thoughtfulness in its air, and a pulse that felt steady, like it had nothing to prove.

I remember the streets, soft and worn with time, curving through the city like whispered invitations. There were festivals alive with color, cafés filled with students and locals, and layers of importance buried beneath the surface—Roman roots, watchmakers, revolutionaries. This wasn’t a town dressed up for tourists. It was a city living its own truth.

There was something deeply grounding about it. Maybe it was the presence of the mountains, watching from a distance. Or the embrace of the river Doubs, looping calmly around the heart of the town. I’ve always been drawn to places where water and land meet with quiet reverence, where nature and history wrap around each other like old friends. Besançon had that.

And yet… it didn’t become my home.

Later that same trip, I visited Alsace. Not Strasbourg yet, but the villages. And something flickered again. A different kind of magic. A different kind of story waiting.

When it came time to choose a home in France, I thought long and hard about Besançon. I nearly said yes. But Strasbourg offered something I couldn’t ignore, connection. To other countries, to the world. A rhythm that matched my work and my wanderlust. A place that still had rivers and mountains, but also an open door to everywhere else.

Still, I think of Besançon often. The way you think of a first love, not with regret, but with tenderness. It was the first place that showed me I could belong somewhere in France. That there was space for me here. And I carry that gift with me still.

Some cities give you a future.

Others give you the courage to imagine one.

Besançon was that kind of city.

Laïcité: What It Is, What It Isn’t, and Why It Surprised Me

Being in France has taught me many things—how to slow down, how to savor a moment, how to pronounce rillettes without embarrassing myself—but one of the deeper cultural lessons I’m still wrapping my head around is laïcité.

At first glance, laïcité might seem like France’s version of the American separation of church and state. And sure, in theory, they’re cousins. But in practice, they couldn’t be more different.

In the U.S., we often talk about “freedom of religion”—the right to practice any faith, or none at all. But religion still lives loudly in public life. It's printed on our money, echoed in campaign speeches, woven into our court proceedings. In many places, it’s not unusual for prayer to open a school board meeting or for politicians to wear their faith like a badge.

France, on the other hand, leans more toward what you might call freedom from religion—at least in public life. That doesn’t mean you can’t believe. Quite the opposite. In France, you're completely free to follow any religion you choose—or to follow none at all. What’s different is that no religion can be imposed on you, especially in spaces run by the state. Public life is meant to be completely neutral—a space where everyone can show up as just a citizen, without any religious marker taking center stage.

It’s not anti-religion. It’s anti-imposition.

That distinction runs deep. In French public schools, for example, students and teachers are not allowed to wear visible religious symbols. It’s not just Muslim students who can’t wear a hijab. Christian students can’t wear a big cross. Jewish students can’t wear a yarmulke. The goal—at least in theory—is to protect the shared civic space from religious pressure, influence, or division. The public sphere, in this sense, is treated as a common good that must remain unmarked by belief.

This applies beyond schools, too. In France, when public officials take office, there’s no swearing in on a Bible—or on any religious text. It’s a civil ceremony, a civic commitment, not a religious one. The same goes for courtrooms. Witnesses are asked to swear to tell the truth, but not on a holy book. There’s no “so help me God” at the end of the oath. The idea is that justice, like governance, must remain secular—accessible and fair for everyone, regardless of belief.

And yet, France remains a deeply cultural place—and that includes religion. Many of the national holidays are rooted in the Catholic calendar: Christmas, Easter Monday, Ascension, All Saints’ Day. They’re observed nationwide, regardless of whether you’re practicing Catholicism, another religion, or none at all. The irony isn’t lost on anyone: the country that guards its secularism so fiercely still gives you time off for saints' days.

But maybe that’s just France in a nutshell—contradictory, layered, complex. A place where tradition and modernity constantly collide and rearrange themselves.

It’s also one of the reasons I find it so fascinating to live here.

France is home to the largest populations of both Jews and Muslims in Europe. And while laïcité aims to keep religion out of the public sphere, that hasn’t erased the deep cultural presence of these communities. For someone like me, who’s curious about the way belief shapes identity, history, and daily life, it’s actually created a beautiful space to explore. I’ve found myself learning more about Jewish traditions, listening to Muslim calls to prayer in certain neighborhoods, and having conversations with people who practice quietly, privately, but with profound conviction.

And here’s a small but memorable example of the culture clash I’ve felt: in the U.S., or even when traveling abroad with Americans, people will often bow their heads and pray aloud before a meal—at home, at restaurants, anywhere—without really checking if everyone at the table is comfortable with that. It’s assumed. Expected, even. I’ve always felt a little uneasy in those moments, as if someone else’s belief system is being draped over the entire table. But the first time that happened here in France—when a group of visiting Americans bowed their heads and prayed out loud at a restaurant—I nearly died of discomfort. Not just for myself, but for the people around us. For the waiter, who paused awkwardly. For the French diners, who visibly tensed. In that moment, I understood viscerally how different the relationship between religion and public space is here. It’s not about suppressing belief. It’s about protecting a shared social space where no one belief dominates or assumes itself as the default.

Another thing I’ve noticed: there’s no culture of evangelism here. No one approaches you on the street to ask if you’ve found salvation. No one strikes up casual conversation with the intent of steering it toward their religion. That kind of thing would be considered wildly inappropriate in France. It’s not because people aren’t spiritual—but because belief is seen as deeply personal, and no one has the right to impose theirs on someone else.

Coming from the U.S., where these encounters are almost normalized—especially in certain regions or subcultures—it’s honestly a relief. There’s a quiet respect here for each person’s internal world. You’re not expected to defend it, explain it, or share it. You’re just allowed to have it. Or not. And that permission, that privacy, creates space for curiosity. For growth. For personal, meaningful exploration that isn’t entangled in performance or persuasion.

I’ll admit, it took me a while to understand this approach. As someone raised in a culture that often celebrates pluralism by displaying it—where interfaith dialogue is on public display, and religion in politics is almost expected—France’s quiet, almost stoic neutrality felt strange at first. But it comes from a deep-rooted history: centuries of religious wars, monarchy-church entanglement, revolution, and eventually, a collective decision that peace required a clean line between faith and the Republic.

Laïcité isn’t always easy to apply. And it hasn’t always been applied fairly. But its intention, at least in its purest form, is equality. One rule for everyone. The state doesn’t care what god you worship, or if you worship at all. But when you step into a government space, a classroom, or a courtroom, you leave religion at the door—not because it’s shameful, but because it’s personal.

There’s something oddly freeing about that. Because in a place where belief isn’t constantly debated or politicized, you get to explore it on your own terms. Quietly. Freely.

Of course, neither the French nor the American approach is perfect. They both come with challenges. But living between these two worlds has made me realize that freedom can look very different depending on where you stand. And maybe that’s okay.

Maybe the most important thing is that we each remain free to question, to believe, to doubt, and to grow—and that no one gets to decide that path for us.

This Is How I Come Back To Life

In Bloom: A Quiet Return to Myself 

There are seasons that pass outside of us and seasons that unfold within us. This spring, I find myself living in both.

After a long, heavy winter—one not just of weather, but of weight—I’ve started to feel something stir. Not all at once, and not with fanfare. But softly. Slowly. As if the quiet corners of my soul have begun to stretch again. And oddly enough, it wasn’t some grand epiphany that brought me here. It was a series of small, beautiful things—moments I might’ve missed if I hadn’t slowed down enough to notice them.

Back in Strasbourg, I’ve begun walking with no real agenda. No itinerary, no expectation. Just presence. And in that space, beauty found me.

I saw it in the blooming trees lining empty streets, their petals falling like soft confetti in the wind. In the tulips erupting in vivid color at the park, where the sound of children’s laughter mixed with the rhythm of fountains splashing. I found it in the silence of a stork’s nest high above the tree line—a moment I’ve waited years to witness, and one that arrived not with a spotlight, but with patience.

And maybe that’s the lesson. Maybe some things come only when we’re ready to receive them. Maybe this is how life teaches us to listen again.

These days, my camera has become more than just a tool for documentation. It’s a way of learning to see again—really see. Not for the sake of content or productivity, but for the quiet whisper of truth that lives in overlooked things. A shadow across a canal. A splash of golden light at dusk. The first wisteria buds pressing out into the world as if unsure whether it’s safe to bloom. I know that feeling. I’ve lived it.

There’s something beautifully defiant about spring. It doesn’t ask permission to grow. It simply does. Whether anyone’s watching or not.

I’ve spent the last few weeks trying to move like that—gently, with intention, grounded in the small overlooked moments of each day. I haven’t written much, because truthfully, I haven’t had much to say. Not in the big, public way I’ve grown used to. But I’ve started to understand that it’s okay to pause. To go quiet. To let yourself lie dormant for a while. There’s wisdom in waiting. There’s healing in hibernation. 

And when you’re ready, the world will wait for you to bloom again.

This return to Strasbourg feels different than those before. Less like a reset, more like a re-rooting. I feel myself growing toward the light, even if I’m not yet sure what shape that will take. There’s comfort in not knowing. In learning to trust the process, the seasons, the self.

I share these photos not to impress, but to remember. These are the small anchors of joy that pulled me gently back toward myself. They remind me that life doesn’t always ask for big moves. Sometimes, it just asks you to show up—to notice. To soften. To begin again, in the quietest way possible.

Spring doesn’t arrive all at once. Neither do we.

As a final note…

I know the world feels heavy for many right now. It can feel strange—even selfish—to notice beauty while so much is unraveling. But I’ve come to believe that finding peace in small, quiet things isn’t a betrayal of the world’s suffering—it’s a way to survive it. A way to remember what’s worth protecting. If you’re in a season of uncertainty, grief, or exhaustion, I hope you still find something—however small—that allows your own buds to bloom. Even in a storm, we’re allowed to lean toward the light.